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Wells Gardner D9200 27" VGA Monitor

I chose to use a Wells Gardner D9200 27" CRT VGA Arcade Monitor
for CHRO-MAME. It's a true arcade monitor, resulting in 100%
accurate resolutions, refresh rates, and colors when it comes to
displaying arcade games. It can run at 15KHz, 24KHz, and
31.5KHz. Plus it can hit every arcade resolution known to
man (there are too many to list, going from very low up to
640x480). The monitor can be driven at 800x600 (I've done it
a few times), but it doesn't look too good at that resolution as
it's not really designed for it. I've read mixed reports all
over the internet that running at 800x600 with a D9200 is
safe/unsafe. According to
Easy MAMECab (the
website that convinced me to get one of these), it is unsafe to
run at 800x600. 640x480 looks fine though.
Wells Gardner also makes a 33" version of this same monitor (I
can't remember if it carries the D9200 model number, or something
like D9300). I couldn't imagine how large of a cabinet you
would need for one of those. The 27" model actually measures
something like 28.5", so it's not one of those cheap 27" deals
that's actually 25". Some
people have rotated their D9200's vertically as it should work
fine as a vertical monitor also. I remember seeing one
cabinet (I don't have the link) that had a motorized monitor,
allowing you to turn it 90 degrees with one push of a button.
Now that's hardcore! The D9200 comes
with a VGA connector, VGA cable, display settings interface card,
and a power cable. The power cable is shipped with bare
wires at its end, so you need to hack it up a bit to connect it.

I have had some very minor problems with the monitor. The
cathode rays (I believe) have become misaligned on three or four
occasions. This results in an off-center, discolored
picture. I've determined that this is caused by
vibration/movement of the monitor. Smacking it hard on the
front upper-right portion of the glass tube fixes this. I
have a feeling that something is loose, but I can't tell what.
It hasn't happened in the past six months though.

Another problem some people have had is color bleeding. Say
a 3x3 inch white square is projected onto the front of the tube.
If the image is left there for a while (~15 minutes) you can start
seeing pink and blue bleed around its edges. This can end up
distorting all of the color throughout the monitor.
Is this monitor burn-in? No, it's virtually impossible to
burn in any monitor in 15 minutes. Rather it's a fault in
the D9200 design. By factory default, the brightness and
contrast are set super-high. Since the cathode rays are
hitting the mask with such intensity (the mask has all of the
holes (representing pixels) that the cathode ray shoots through),
the rays cause the mask to heat up and warp slightly. This
offsets the red, blue, and green pixels and distorts the color on
the image. Solution? Shut the
monitor off for 20-30 minutes and let it cool down. The
picture will come back to normal. To prevent this from
happening ever again, simply decrease the brightness/contrast of
the monitor.
The D9200 in all its Glory:

Back of D9200 (Don't Touch Anything! - Shock Hazard):

Another Back View of the D9200:

Left Side:

Left Side (Again - the right side looks exactly the same, so
you're not missing anything):

They sell these monitors in several different metal enclosures.
They're all called Wells Gardner D9200's, but I can't figure out
their model system. I've seen some of these D9200's in a
roll-bar like enclosure (kind of like the roll bars you see on
those small Jeep's) which have the monitor pre-angled when sitting
flat on its base.
Sitting in its Home (that shelf isn't bent - the optics in my
camera are playing a trick on you):

Left Handle (these handles were added by my father - without
them it's impossible to remove it):

Right Handle:

My Hand Fits Nicely:

Here I am Pulling it Out (it weighs about 80 pounds - I can
remove it and put it back in without any help):

RCA (a.k.a. Thompson Electronics) Makes the D9200 CRT Tube:

Motherboard Power and VGA Connectors:

The motherboard can be replaced if it dies (same with the CRT
tube). I think a new one is around $250.00. A new tube
is probably a lot more.

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